Imagine being surrounded by hundreds of sea turtles that are twice your size, schools of fish so vast they seem endless and countless sharks that gracefully glide past you. Picture perfect moments right? Recently I had the privilege of visiting the Galápagos Islands, often referred to as a ‘living laboratory’ due to the high number of endemic species. And let me tell you, in the vast realm of travel narratives, few destinations evoke the sense of wonder and responsibility like these islands. As an avid adventurer and underwater photographer, my time in the Galápagos was not just a journey of exploration but a profound lesson in responsible travel.

Close-up of a curious sea lion at Tijeretas in San Cristóbal : Galápagos sea lions are known for their curious and playful behavior around humans. This particular sea lion lingered a few extra seconds to inspect me and my camera gear. The moment felt like forever. It's such an honor when wildlife chooses to interact and connect. Image by Katjana Cabenda.

The allure of wild places like the Galápagos is undeniable, but it comes with a set of tough questions. For instance, how do we balance our thirst for adventure with the need to protect these fragile ecosystems? Is it ethical to prioritize personal fulfillment over the well-being of the planet and its inhabitants? My mind quickly goes back to a core memory of mine. At the heart of this Galápagos adventure lies the fulfillment of a childhood dream. As a 10 or 11-year-old, poring over National Geographic magazines and crafting a school presentation about the Galápagos, I could only imagine the day when I would set foot here.

The reality is that travel inherently contributes to environmental degradation. Flying, in particular, releases significant amounts of emissions into the atmosphere, exacerbating climate change and ocean acidification. I am based on the Caribbean island called Curaçao–a mere 2,500 kilometers from San Cristobal, and it took me 4 flights to reach my destination. The idea of offsetting this impact through carbon credits or eco-friendly accommodations does little to address the root cause of the problem.

Additionally, the influx of tourists can place strain on infrastructure and natural resources, further exacerbating environmental degradation. Each year, thousands of adventurers like myself visit the archipelago to experience its unique wildlife, landscapes, and outdoor activities such as snorkeling, diving, and hiking. In recent years, the Galápagos Islands have been receiving around 200,000 visitors annually. Looking back at fifty years ago in the 1970s, annual visitor numbers were in the low tens of thousands. These are important facts to take in.

Highlands of San Cristóbal : During our Ubuntu Bound expedition, we ventured into the highlands of San Cristóbal to visit El Junco – a freshwater volcanic crater lake.The climate here contrasts starkly with the coastal regions; while beaches may be sunny and clear, the highlands can present a completely different story. Image by Katjana Cabenda.

From my perspective, responsible exploration isn't about eliminating travel altogether. To me, it's about making conscious choices to mitigate our impact on the environment. For example, by supporting sustainable tourism initiatives and engaging with local communities, while respecting the rights and autonomy of indigenous peoples, we can contribute positively to the preservation of culture and tradition. Immersed in these ‘enchanted islands’ is where I realized all the more that as creators we are not only there to capture the magic of our natural world. While doing so, we have a duty to set an example in terms of practicing environmental stewardship and inspiring others to explore wild places like the Galápagos responsibly.

Responsible tourism is clearly a complex subject, and if anything, my journey in the Galápagos highlighted the delicate balance between humans and nature. Tourism is a vital economic driver for the Galápagos Islands. However, these islands are not just a tourist destination; they are a vital sanctuary for rare and endangered species. From the moment I embarked the shores of San Cristobal, I knew that this journey would be unlike any other. Every single morning, I was greeted by the joyful barks of sea lions in the bay, a reminder of the interconnectedness of all living beings in this remarkable ecosystem. As a visitor you are a temporary steward of the natural world around you. Learning more about the Galápagos Islands during my visit, I found it stands as a beacon of conservation efforts, boasting policies and regulations that set them apart from other destinations.

Waved albatross near San Cristóbal : The waved albatross, with a wingspan of up to 2.5 meters, is the largest bird in the Galápagos. On Española Island, a significant population breeds and resides. It’s incredible to witness how these birds exhibit natural behaviors undisturbed by human presence. This particular albatross had an egg just a few meters away. Image by Katjana Cabenda.

Upon entering the islands, visitors are required to pay entry fees of $200, which help fund habitat restoration, species protection, and environmental education programs. The policies governing eco-tourism in the Galápagos have evolved over several decades in response to increasing visitor numbers and growing environmental concerns. Key milestones include the establishment of the Galápagos National Park in 1959, with the Galápagos Islands being designated a UNESCO World Heritage Site in 1978. The Galápagos Marine Reserve was officially established in 1998, and it was later expanded to approximately 133,000 square kilometers. The most recent expansion in 2022 increased the reserve size to 198,000 square kilometers––making it one of the largest marine reserves in the world.

One of the primary objectives of the Galápagos National Park is to protect the islands' diverse wildlife, including endemic species such as the Galápagos giant tortoise, marine iguana, and blue-footed booby. Therefore, the National Park has implemented stringent entry regulations to limit the number of visitors and control human impact on the fragile ecosystem. Regulations include specific visitor quotas, designated visitor sites, and restricted access to certain areas. To illustrate, visitor groups in the Galápagos National Park are limited to a maximum of 16 people per certified guide. Also, some of the most sensitive visitor sites enforce strict regulations on boat access, allowing only one boat at a time to reduce overcrowding and disturbance to wildlife.

It was fascinating to experience a system of intentional tourism work in a real life setting. Each expedition day began before the sunlight kissed the shores of the island. While our small group of adventurers eagerly boarded the boat, brimming with anticipation for the day's adventures, our boat was meticulously checked by Marine Patrol on the number of people on board and where we’d be headed during our designated time slot. Ultimately, this resulted in our small group getting to enjoy most of the spots on our trip entirely to ourselves. And that is just… Magical. To say the least.

I vividly remember stepping off the boat for our first freediving session. As we submerged into the cold waters, witnessing light rays dancing under the water, we were instantly warmed by the sight of nature thriving beneath the surface. A feeling like I had just been transported into another world. Countless hammerhead, black and white tip sharks and pods of feeding dolphins passing by. Gazing into the eyes of a curious mama sea lion and having playful interactions with the cubs and seeing spotted eagle rays effortlessly swimming by.

Dana Bjarner surrounded by a bait ball of Galápagos salemas at Española Island : Española Island is famed for its vibrant marine life. Bait balls like this one often attract various predators. This time they offered us freedivers beautiful underwater displays. Image by Katjana Cabenda.

Adhering to guidelines such as avoiding flash photography and respecting wildlife boundaries by maintaining a minimum distance of at least six feet, I was able to capture intimate moments without intruding on their habitat. During the expeditions we learned from local conservationist and underwater photographer, Dana Bjarner, who shed light on a set of ‘golden rules’ non-invasive methods to capture images of wildlife:

1. Use Long Lenses: Opt for telephoto or zoom lenses to capture detailed shots from a safe distance without intruding on the animals' space.

2. Practice Patience: Allow wildlife to come to you rather than approaching them. Patience often leads to more natural and unobtrusive shots.

3. Observe and Understand Behavior: Spend time observing the behavior of the wildlife you want to photograph. Understanding their movements and habits helps anticipate moments worth capturing.

4. Avoid Flash Photography: Flash photography can startle and stress wildlife. Refrain from using flash to minimize disturbance and respect their natural environment.

5. Shoot in Natural Light: Utilize natural light whenever possible to capture the true essence of the wildlife and their surroundings without artificial interference.

6. Respect Boundaries: Adhere to park rules and guidelines regarding safe distances from wildlife. Maintain a respectful distance to avoid causing stress or disrupting natural behaviors.

7. Capture Candid Moments: Focus on capturing candid moments rather than staged or manipulated shots. Authenticity enhances the beauty and storytelling of wildlife photography.

8. Be Mindful of Noise: Keep noise levels to a minimum to avoid startling or disturbing the wildlife. Quietly observe and photograph to maintain a peaceful environment.

9. Leave No Trace: Ensure minimal impact on the environment by refraining from leaving any litter or disturbing natural habitats while pursuing the perfect shot.

“In the Galápagos, ethical encounters with wildlife are not just a guideline; they are a commitment to conservation. Ubuntu Bound is dedicated to protecting and preserving our planet's precious ecosystems, such as the enchanted Galápagos, for future generations. Through responsible tourism and wildlife viewing practices, we strive to ensure that these natural wonders remain intact for years to come.” – Dana Bjarner, Co-founder Ubuntu Bound & Underwater Photographer

To me, one of the most remarkable aspects of practicing photography in the Galápagos is that you don't even have to be all that patient. Due to the protection of animals in this sanctuary, wildlife often doesn’t view humans as a threat. This unique dynamic allows for incredibly close encounters.

As the expedition drew to a close, and the memories of unique experiences clearly shine through, I find myself reliving the magical sights and feeling humbled by the sheer abundance and fragility of the Galápagos. Going through my SD cards filled with pictures of sea lions lounging lazily on benches right next to me, schools of fish swirling around us, marine iguanas grazing in the waters, blue-footed boobies nesting, and giant tortoises lumbering across the terrain, each image serves as a reminder of our collective responsibility to protect and preserve our planet's precious ecosystems.

Exploring wild places responsibly involves dealing with complex issues such as environmental impact, cultural preservation, and ethical considerations. The reality is that while we need to fly less, tourism to the Galápagos is critical to funding its conservation too.

The crux is: how do we make the environmental cost of travel worthwhile?

Katjana Cabenda at the highest point of the volcanic crater in San Cristóbal : For a brief moment, the mist cleared, revealing the expansive crater of El Junco. Standing at this vantage point offers a unique perspective of San Cristóbal's diverse landscapes. Image by Dana Bjarner.

On the one hand, I believe we can reach this by immersing oneself deeply in the experience, seeking to understand the intricate balance of the ecosystems we visit, and contributing meaningfully to their preservation. However, the lessons from the Galápagos extend beyond its shores. Being back home on Curaçao, the island I call home, here are a few principles that I’ve adopted and hope to inspire others to embrace:

1. Educate and Advocate : Knowledge is power. The more we understand about the places we visit, the more we can advocate for their protection. Sharing stories and images of these fragile ecosystems can raise awareness and inspire others to travel responsibly. The beautiful encounters with wildlife in the Galápagos reaffirmed my commitment to environmental stewardship. By fostering a deep connection with nature, we can cultivate a sense of responsibility and urgency to protect it.

The islands taught me, as a photographer and traveler, that capturing the beauty of these wild places is only half the story. Personally, I decided to more actively share the good, the bad, and the ugly of my travels. Both offline as online. I have always been somewhat reluctant to combine my images on social media with my views on sustainable development. However, after returning from these magical islands, I felt a deeper responsibility and privilege to capture photos, videos, and share the stories of the extraordinary places I visit, the resilient animals that inhabit them, and the dedicated people who work there. My mission is to tell these stories with the utmost authenticity, hoping to inspire others to appreciate and protect these incredible environments.

2. Incorporate Sustainable Practices at Home : Beyond paying entry fees or choosing eco-friendly accommodations, engaging with and supporting local conservation initiatives is crucial. Not only when you’re abroad—the lessons learned from the Galápagos can be applied to our everyday lives. In Curaçao, I strive to reduce my carbon footprint by considering what I eat (I personally prefer vegetables over meat and fish), strive to buy second-hand (from clothes to furniture) whenever I can or invest in durable pieces from sustainable brands, support local initiatives such as cleaning the shores, and educate others about the importance of conservation. The principles of intentional tourism can guide us in making more eco-friendly choices in our daily routines.
   
   

3. Embrace the Value of Experiences : Although the environmental cost of travel is significant, I believe the profound experiences and lessons we gain can be invaluable. Traveling to places like the Galápagos taught me even more about biodiversity, conservation, and the delicate balance of ecosystems. These experiences have reshaped my perspectives and inspired me to take (more) meaningful action to protect the planet.

Katjana Cabenda in front of the iconic Kicker Rock : Kicker Rock, or León Dormido, is a volcanic formation near San Cristóbal. Rising abruptly from the sea, it's a favored spot for snorkeling and diving, offering encounters with diverse marine life, including sharks and rays. Image by Dana Bjarner. 

While going back and forth with the editorial team here at Waterlust as I developed this article, Patrick (the founder of Waterlust and this blog’s editor) said something that really stuck with me: “Travel, at its best, is a profound exchange of wisdom and culture, a way to broaden our perspectives and inspire action. At its worst, travel can be just another commodity that people consume at the cost of the environment, almost like a form of entertainment.”

As a photographer, I now all the more see travel and my work as a privilege that comes with the responsibility to not only respect and preserve the places I visit but to also actively share my images and authentic stories about my experiences to inspire others. By doing so, I hope to transform not only my personal understanding of the world, but also my community’s point of view. Every effort, no matter how small, contributes to a larger cause.

Capturing the essence of these remote places, I feel strengthened that we all have the power to be part of this driving force to make lasting, positive changes and to inspire others to follow.

To create a legacy of conservation.

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About Ubuntu Bound

Ubuntu Bound is a local female-led organization that designs expeditions for adventurous souls who are ready to embrace the world's wonders and connect with like-minded individuals from all corners of the globe. Bound for the unexpected, bound for adventure, bound for connection.

The founders of Ubuntu Bound, Ecuadorians Dana Bjarner and Ericka Carrera are influential voices in conservation. During the expeditions, underwater photographer Dana emphasizes the importance of respectful encounters with wildlife and teaches skills to do so. Whereas, Ericka, who is a level 4 freediving instructor and depth record holder in Ecuador with 4x national records (CMAS) and 1x national record (AIDA) focuses on unleashing your freediving potential.